Pat McGrath Makeup Artist

… is one of my favourite Makeup Artists so I wanted to share this little nugget of her advice this morning with you all

“Fresh matte” …
… is how makeup GURU Pat McGrath described this seasons makeup finish backstage at Valentino …

So do you think that you might rock out this velvety texture or will you stick with Springs dewy finish?

Make Up Like A Pro
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A little taster for you of one of Pats INCREDIBLE pieces of work

Pat McGrath Makeup Artist

Colour! Part 5: Makeup … By Make Up Like A Pro

Welcome back to Part 5 – the FINAL Part! – to Make Up Like A Pro’s Week of colour

This week I have not only introduced colour to you from a makeup perspective but I have also told you the colours that you should be wearing to complement your eyes in the best possible way!  Do you feel more confident with that knowledge?

I’ve explained the Colour Wheel and its role in Colour Theory.  I’ve explained colour terminology to you so that you are better equipped to explain to other people what you might want and you should be able to make recommendations to your friends now when they ask your opinion or even ask your advice!  Even better!

Yesterday I told you what colours you should be wearing to best show off your natural eye colour and today I said that I would make some product recommendations to you.  And that’s exactly what I am going to do.  I have tried and tested each of the products below so be assured that when I make my comments, they are based on experiences that I have had with each.  This is by no means an exhaustive list of products, nor is it a review “across the board”.  By that I mean that below is a list of products and brands that I personally use as part of my Makeup Kit.  I have a huge variety of products and various brands and some are better than others (as you would expect) and I have creamed some off of the top layer of my collection that I am going to talk to you about.  As my blog expands and grows and I carry out more product reviews, I will be doing more specific recommendations on new products.  For Part 5 of my week of Colour, I want to talk to you about SOME of the makeup that I like to use

Today will give you an idea as to some of the better colours that are out there and available to you

Pigments

When I review an eye shadow / eyeliner/ pigment I am basing the strength of my recommendation on its pigment strength (how vibrant the colour is) and how easy it is to apply.  The idea of Part 5 is not for me to be giving you a lesson on how to apply your eye makeup, but it is for me to give you an idea on some of the good eye makeup products out there that will give you the strong coverage that you deserve!  There are a lot out there that look great in the pallet but fade away to nothing… and that’s no good for anyone!  I will be writing articles on makeup application techniques so make sure that you sign up so that you don’t miss out on any of these coming up!

If you want your eye shadow to remain vibrant and last the day, it’s vital that you apply a primer to your eyelid before you begin your makeup.  They are so easy to get hold of and if you don’t want to shop around in-store trying to find one, then have a look online.  Just a few brands that do them … Benefit Lemon-Aid, Urban Decay Primer Potion, MAC Cream-colour base, Lancome Aquatique Waterproof base, Clinique Touch Base, Mary Kay Eye Primer… and the list goes on!

So let’s get to the nitty gritty … Eye Shadows and Eye Makeup that are worth the money and the effort!  MAC offers a fantastic variety of eye shadows, each with guaranteed strong pigmentation.  I use a lot of MAC eye shadows in my Kit because of their pigment strength and because they come in a fabulous pallet meaning I can have 15 colours easily laid out in front of me!

MAC

For powder finish eye shadows, Honesty is a pewtered bronze, Embark is an intense reddish-brown and Folie is a reddish-plum brown and they are all fantastic if you are after a dense woody tone. They are all Browns that work very well when teemed with other complementary shades.  They are very versatile colours great for an earthy finish

One of my favourite combinations is to use Teddy eye Kohl with any of the above colours, which is especially beautiful on a light blue eye!  It makes the blue really stand out… think back to the colour wheel and yesterday’s Part 4 on colours for blue eyes

Orb is a soft peachy-beige with a satin finish.  It’s a versatile natural colour and is used well to cover an entire lid.  When it’s combined with some darker socket line shading for a bit of definition, Orb will complement most other eye colours – it’s a great generic kit essential

Scene, which is a muted blue-grey, works very well with Nehru (muted bluish-black) or Carbon (intense black) to add intensity and depth to a smoky eye

MAC

MAC Paint Pots are a highly pigmented eye colour that go on creamy but dry to an intense vibrant finish.  This advertises itself to enable you to create seamless coverage without weight or caking… and they do just that!

 

MAC pigments are a highly concentrated loose colour powder containing ingredients that help it adhere to the skin.  The great thing about these is that they can be used to give a subtle wash of colour or an intense effect.  They can be applied dry for the subtle effect or wet for an intense effect.  If you’re looking for a pink with a punch, then try Fuscia… you won’t be disappointed!

 

For colour intensity too, you can’t go wrong with Illamasqua’s powder shadows.  They come in a wide range of shades so you will be sure to find one that you like!  For a water-resistant, highly pigmented finish, try their cream pigments.  They blend on beautifully and are very crease resistant!  If you’re looking for a Blue with a kick, try their Pigment in Alluvium …it’s a hot metallic, high shine pigment that can be used on its own or with an eye shadow.  Or go all out and try their liquid metal… it’s STUNNING.  It comes in a small pot and is such a rich and highly pigmented metallic cream.  Fantastic on eye lids that you want to stand out more than the average eye shadow

Illamasqua

Bobbi Brown is up there in the top league when it comes to eye shadows too.  They’re available in a wide range of colours which are easily applied and blended.   Because they are so easily blended together, using a three colour combination works incredibly well.  Pick a neutral shade for your entire lid, such as Ivory, with a Taupe in the socket line and punch something like a Rich Brown into your lash line for definition.  Voila!  Guaranteed hotness J

Bobbi Brown

I can’t complete Part 5 without mentioning Nars or Shu Uemura either.  Nars Duo Eye shadows are fantastic in so many ways – firstly you get 2 shadows so your creative licence instantly shoots up compared to if you were working with a single colour!  Secondly the pigments are enough to create depth and are easily blended so working the two colours together is no chore at all.  With over 50 Duo colour combinations at your ready, your only job is to decide which one(s) to go for!

Shu Uemura’s pressed eye shadows are another favourite. They truly do blend effortlessly for ideal coverage and control.   If you’re looking for a green, Medium Olive is stunning.  Team it with their Drawing Pencils and try Khaki… they are waterproof so they don’t run away half way through the day, but they can be blended soon after they are applied.  A trick that I like to use, is to take an eyeliner and treat is as a primer so effectively you are creating a colour base with your liner.  When you layer up your eye shadow colour over the top, any shadow / pigment etc. that is applied will not only stick to the pencil, which means that the colour will last, but the additional pigment really creates more colour depth.  A favourite day time effect of mine is to use MAC’s eye Kohl in Teddy over my entire lid, a bronze eye shadow over the top on the inside corner of my eye and then a darker shadow, such as Embark in the socket line.   This colour blending is limitless so when you start getting to grips with some of the colours that are available out there for you to buy you will find that only your imagination is your limit

NARS

One of the things that really allows me to do my job well is knowing my own kit so I can push the boundaries and possibilities with all of the products that I use.  I am a huge believer in you all using the same principle with your own personal makeup bags.  I also use “cross-branding” too … and by that I mean I might mix a MAC eye shadow with a Nars eye shadow … there’s no harm in doing that.  The same principle applies too for foundations.  You are well within your “right” to mix away (as long as they have the same base, for instance, that they are both water based foundations).  Just as I would mix bases to match to my clients skin tone, I do the same with eye colour.  If your end result is to have a strong colour on your eye then the more that you layer up your colour, the more punch your colour will have on your eye!  Does that make sense?  I hope so!

With that sentiment, I am going to draw my Week on Colour to a close.  I really hope that you have enjoyed reading this as much as I have loved writing every word down.  I hope that you now understand how useful colour can be in allowing you to create whatever look you desire!  The only limitations to Makeup are either lack of imagination or lack of knowledge of some basic principles, such as The Colour Theory.  I’m not saying that you need to learn every single word that I have told you, but you should have an idea about the wide range of endless possibilities that colour has and the ways that can impact how you create your own make-up designs

Never stop experimenting and you will never stop creating

MAC
Artwork by MAC

Thank you for reading and I look forward to doing it all again, very soon J

By Make Up Like A Pro

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COLOUR! Part 4 – Eye colours and The Colour Wheel

Welcome to Part 4 of Make Up Like A Pro’s week on colour!

By now you should be quite comfortable with the various terminology that is used to describe colour and the impact that colour has on every aspect of makeup, from a basic “beauty” makeup, to a casualty makeup

Knowing how colour works to turn on certain sensors in a person’s mind as well as knowing how it works on the face and body is a key part in understanding makeup in its entirety.  By learning the various aspects of colour theory you will uncover just how powerful colour is and this knowledge will assist you in getting the best possible results out of your makeup

I explained the reflectiveness of colour yesterday and the direct effect that it has on products such as eye shadows, blushers etc.  They each come in a “colour wheel” of colours that can be, amongst other things, metallic, shimmery, matte, shiny, sheer, and glossy

Makeup colour is often correlated to the colour of clothing that you choose – you only need to have a look at the front covers of Vogue and Cosmopolitan to see examples of this!  Depending on the style of the shoot, the models always look their absolute best – polished and preened – and the makeup is always perfect.  The colour tones will complement each other, the reflectiveness will suit their skin tone and the “whole package” will be incredibly pleasing to the eye

Would you like to be able to re-create your own front cover magazine image on yourself?  I will impart some very useful pieces of information that will allow you to accomplish just that.  Stay tuned and read on!

It’s vital to consider your eye colour when deciding on what shade of eye makeup to go for.  Do you remember Tuesdays post when I talked about complementary colours and the effect that they have on each other?  Matching your eye shadow to your eye colour often gives a very monochromatic look which is why complementary colouring is so popular.  The most common aim when selecting any eye shadow colour is to enhance your natural eye colour

Read on as I unveil the best colours for you!  You will find product recommendations tomorrow, but today I will be talking specifically about makeup colours and eye colours.  Before you read on, cast your mind back to the colour wheel and see where your eye colour sits amongst the other colours …

Blue eyes

Part 4 Blue Eyes

Blue is a primary colour and sits next to green and purple on the colour wheel.  Orange is directly opposite it and is therefore its complimentary colour.  Cast your mind back again to yesterday’s post and the relationship that colours have with each other.  Blue and green and blue and purple are harmonising colours – they share a pigment and blend easily into each other.  If you opt for a purple or green eye shadow and have blue eyes, the result will be soft.  Blues can help blue eyes pop out if it’s the darker blue and used in moderation. Opting for a dark blue tone helps to bring out the natural blue tones in your eyes

If you are looking to enhance the blue of your eyes, they you need to pick a colour on the opposite side of the colour wheel … like gold’s, oranges, coppers and browns.  To make them really stand out, go for darker shades of brown, blacks and charcoal.  If you choose a dark brown with a copper tone, you will find that your blue becomes much more prominent

Part 4 Bronze eyeshadow on Blue eyes

 

For a fun twist, wear a fuscia or orange on the lid with a touch of brown in the socket line.  This keeps your makeup “wearable” but it livens it up a little J  If you are keen on using blue and want to enhance the blue without being too overdone, then why not try a blue eyeliner in your waterline

Brown, camel, taupe, light purple, lavender, silver and grey are all great colours for eye liners and will really complement your true colour.  Grey, silver, violet or lavender are all good tones too!

If you are picking up the pace in your eyes with the colours that you choose, make sure you tone down your lips.  Try out a peachy brown or a pinky brown colour (it depends on your skin tone) and try something matte. Keep your cheeks natural too

Brown eyes

Part 4 Brown Eyes

Brown is a tertiary colour and is created by mixing other colours together.  Makeup that would work best for brown eyes will therefore depend on whether the brown is more of a reddish-brown or more of a greenish-brown (if you create brown by mixing red and green together that is).  Traditionally the colour wheel is set up so that the colours along the outside become more neutral as you move towards the centre, so essentially more brownish.  As I mentioned above, there isn’t a pure brown, as it is a combination of colours. So every brown would have a place somewhere in the interior circles of the colour wheel. To find its compliment you simply go to the brown that is across from it on the colour wheel. So a reddish-brown is the compliment of a greenish brown.  Another way to think of brown is it having a split compliment, for example it always has two opposites which are made up of the two colours that were mixed together to make it!  So, if you mix yellow and purple together to make the brown, then yellow and purple would BOTH be its “opposites”

A greenish-brown on the colour wheel is opposite to a reddish-brown therefore opting for reddish / coppery toned brown will make your green eyes jump out!  If you have reddish-brown eyes on the other hand, then a green or blue-green tone will make your eyes stand out the most.  If you have a lot of yellow in your eyes which is common with brown-eyed beauties, then a purple toned eye shadow will work wonders at bringing out your natural eye colour!

Part 4 Brown Eyes

It is valuable information in being able to discern what kind of brown your eyes are as it will allow you to pair it with appropriate colours!

Green eyes

Part 4 Green eyes

Although green is often associated with envy, there’s no reason that it should get a bad rep!  Green eyes are uniquely beautiful and fun to make up since different eye shadow colours can appear to alter their intensity.  Red and red-violet are opposite green on the colour wheel so opting for a plum or a lilac eye shadow will make your eyes really pop. Silver, blue or green could be too harsh for a green eye, unless you are opting to make a real colour statement!  Neutral tones, deep browns and gold or copper shades will also look stunning on you

As I’ve mentioned above, opposites attract when it comes to the colour wheel.  Bring out green eyes with makeup that is red-based so opt for raisin-coloured eyeliner and a plum eye shadow.  If your green eyes are close-set, separate them by using a lighter pencil, try mauve, from the inner corner to the middle of your eye.  The darker plum tones should be used at the outer edges of the eye.  If your green eyes are droopy, apply the darker purple at the inner eye and use lighter colours toward the outer edges.  And why not try a plum coloured mascara to really kick out the green?!

 

Part 4 Green eyes

Phew!  Are you saturated with colour information overload!?  I hope not. I hope that you now know what colours you should be wearing to best compliment your natural eye colour.  There are no hard and fast rules when it comes to makeup application but there are rules that affect how makeup can be perceived when it is on the skin and “sitting” next to other colours.  The effect that colours have on each other is quite spectacular and I hope that by the end of this Part 4, you will have built up your own catalogue of colour knowledge so that you are more equipped to make well-educated makeup colour choices

So what can I possibly talk about tomorrow?  What is there left to discuss to do with colour?  Don’t fear… tomorrow I will be talking about specific makeup brands and I will be recommending some fantastic makeup that you can try at home

Thank you so much for reading my post today and I welcome you back, in advance, tomorrow :)

Thank you, by Make Up Like A Pro

x

COLOUR! Part 1 – The importance of colour and what it means to us by Make Up Like A Pro

Hey everybody and welcome to Colour Part 1 – The Importance of colour and what it means to us all

If you have checked out Make Up Like A Pro’s Facebook Like Page and my Twitter account this morning you will see that I am changing my plan slightly this week in what I’m going to write about.  I am going to dedicate an entire week to COLOUR and the importance and effect and impact that it has on Makeup and Beauty

Make Up Like A Pro Colour: Part 1

You may be thinking, what led me to decide to dedicate an entire week to COLOUR?  The fact that I am asked, more than anything else “what colour should I wear to make my eyes stand out?”  You may also be wondering what on earth I could talk about all week to do with colour!?  I think you will be surprised when we get to Friday and you realise how much you have learned!

There are so many tricks and nuances that go with creating a beautiful makeup look but before you start creating anything, any makeup artist worth talking to will tell you about the importance of colour and the colour wheel. Understanding how colour works is a very important step when going about makeup application. When going for a beauty makeup or a makeup to help your eye colour and skin tone stand out, generally speaking you want the base colour of your eye shadow to be complementary to your eye colour and skin tone pigment

Did you know that colour involves some of the most complicated things on Earth; light and the human eye and brain?  So to work successfully with colour, you require both emotion and knowledge

Think of some scenarios when you might need to know about colour …

  • Deciding what eye shadow to wear to make your eyes stand out?
  • Deciding what blusher will best suit your skin tone?
  • Deciding what foundation colour you need?
  • Giving advice to a friend on what lipstick she should wear?
  • Trying to conceal dark circles under your eyes?
  • Looking to cover up a tattoo temporarily?
  • Deciding the best makeup to wear with a specific outfit colour?

As a makeup artist I need to know about colour and how it affects a whole load of different things. For instance I need to know about a client’s skin undertone so I can select the correct colour based foundation.  If a client asks me what colour they should wear on their eyes I need to tell them the importance of using complementary colours and I need to be able to suggest some shades they should try

I’m sorry to have to break this to you, but if you want to get to grips with best way to enhance all your naturally gorgeous parts, then you need to get your head around colour!

Colour is an emotionally based additive which means that you can use it in your makeup to express your mood and highlight your style.  Its power potential is HUGE!

Make Up Like A Pro Colour: Part 1

DON’T PANIC though as I will talk and walk you through the most important parts over the course of this week

Before we get too technical about colour and its components, I want to first get your head around the different types of emotions that colour might evoke and where you might commonly see these colours in the makeup world

RED:  a great addition to lipsticks and nails, red symbolises energy and action and is often associated with sex, power and heat
ORANGES:  fantastic tones to use in your cheeks and lips, oranges symbolise the sun and warmth and is often associated with vitality and assertiveness
YELLOW: a great source of colour for highlights in your hair and on your skin, yellow symbolises power and life and is often associated with gold’s and Ancient times
BLUE: often used on nails and eyes, blue is known for peace and coolness and is commonly associated with water and health
GREEN:  often used on nails and eyes, green symbolises the green growth of plants and nature and is associated with the renewal of life
PURPLE: popularly used for eyes and lips, purple symbolises royalty and romance and is a colour that often arouses your sense of smell
PINK: so commonly used on lips and cheeks, pink is one of the most feminine of colours and provides a sense of sweetness and an image of purity

So do you see the importance of colour and how it impacts your daily style choices?  By the end of this week, my aim is to arm you with both specific AND generic information about colour so that you are able to make informed choices and judgements on what to wear that will make the most of yourself

After a gentle introduction today into the importance of colour and what it means to us all, tomorrow I will be telling you about the Colour Wheel and its components and how the Colour Wheel helps us to determine the best colours to choose every day

I want the WORLD to know about colour so please share todays post, leave a reply, post your comments and spread the Make Up Like A Pro love :)

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