Film Effects and Beauty Makeup – which one?

What is a Beauty (aesthetic) Makeup? And what is Effects (prosthetic) makeup?

Morning everybody – how was your weekend?  Fun I hope?!

Smokey Eye

Mine was great.  I had a full glam evening out on Friday night (Ill tell you about the products I used later but here’s a little pic attached) and a chilled out rest of the weekend ready for a busy week ahead!

As it’s Monday, I thought that I’d start the week with a new topic… I thought that I’d talk about the cross over between High-street Makeup and Film Makeup because it’s 2 areas that I am fully involved with on a day to day basis!  I know that a lot of my friends get confused with some of the words that I use to describe the different makeups so I thought that it might make a nice Monday morning read for you all to check out the difference between 2 major makeup areas

As we all know I’m sure, Makeup goes further than making you look good on the outside.  I truly believe that if you embrace its power then it can help you to feel more positive on the inside too.  In terms of positivity, it’s about having added confidence in knowing that you look and feel great.  Looking presentable is just an obvious advantage.  Makeup is a very powerful tool as it can considerably change the way that you look.  Not all makeup will work to enhance your natural features and add beauty.  Aaesthetic makeup, aka beauty makeup will help you to do this, and prosthetic makeup, aka special effects makeup, uses a different approach.  Take a look at the photo of Ric Baker below for example

Makeup Artist Ric Baker
Rick Baker

If you don’t have any beauty makeup and want to buy some then get yourself down to a department store and start testing out some colours and products.  Take a packet of tissues with you too so you can wipe off colours and start again!  Don’t be afraid to use the back of your hand as a pallet too.  When you think of beauty makeup, you are familiar with lipstick, foundation, blusher, mascara, eye shadow… all of the products which are readily available to you – even in some of the major Clothes Stores now

On Thursday last week I talked about Movie Makeup Transformations.  Check out my article if you haven’t already as it will introduce you to some of the most recent Movie Makeups that have involved some form of transformation to take the actor to the character he/she will be playing.  This process often will involve some level of Prosthetic makeup application, which is usually known as “Effects makeup”.  Take a look at some movies, TV shows and theatre shows to get a treat for your eyes in some prosthetic makeup examples – they truly are works of art.  So, it is often applied to create a special / particular / chosen “effect” … not a term you should be using when looking to build up your beauty makeup dialogue!  Sculpting, moulding and casting techniques are used to create advanced cosmetic effects.  Some of the desired effects for the person wearing the makeup might be to age, grow, change shape or even change species through the clever and skilled application of prosthetic makeup techniques.  For instance, the character Mystique in X-Men

Rebecca Romijn as Mistique in X-Men

 

There is more cross over between aesthetic makeup and prosthetic makeup in terms of products used but less of a cross over in the products used to create prosthetic effects and those used to create a beauty makeup!  It might seem obvious but it’s useful to know the terminology and some differences between the two

Megan Fox celebrity Makeup
Megan Fox

 

So if you want that celebrity glowing look everywhere you go, like Megan Fox, don’t miss a trick… take your lippie but girls, make sure that you leave at home your sculpting kit! :)

Makeup Like A Pro

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COLOUR! Part 3: Describing colour & the impact it has on your Makeup by Make Up Like A Pro

Welcome back to Part 3 of Make Up Like A Pro’s Week of Colour!

On Monday we explored colour in its broadest sense and I gave you a list of colours and the common emotion often attributed to them.  Yesterday I explained the role of the Colour Wheel and Colour Theory and the impact that it has on Makeup.  Hopefully you are starting to realise the impact that colour has on making Hair and Makeup decisions and that you are getting to grips with a little bit of the science side of it J

Today I am going to talk about how to describe colour using various properties: Hue, shade, tint, tone, brightness and saturation and how you can take advantage of these to create your own makeup effects

The chart below is an example of Tints, Shades and Tones using a Blue Hue

Make Up Like A Pro

The Hue is the basic colour group i.e. blue (in this example), green, red etc.

The top layer shows Blue Tints – a Tint is the hue plus white which makes the colour lighter and creates pastel shades

The middle layer shows Blue Shades – a Shade is the hue plus black which makes the colour darker

The bottom layer shows Blue Tones – a Tone is the hue plus grey.  The tonality refers to the lightness and darkness of a colour, for example in black and white photos tones are visible, rather than colour.  For example a light yellow and a light purple would have the same tonality and would therefore look the same in black and white

Brightness, also referred to as “value” describes how light or dark the colour is

Saturation tells us how the colour looks under various lighting.  For example when you do your makeup in the bathroom light and then step outside into the natural light, the makeup hasn’t changed but it looks somehow different.  The changed saturation gives us a different perception of the colours.  The greater the saturation, the more vivid the Hue

These colour descriptions all help to affect how the makeup I put on someone’s face will look on-screen.  For a Makeup Artist, there are various things that will impact how a makeup will look, such as the type of lighting used, the colour of the costume that is being worn and how the set (the area that we shoot in) is coloured and the reflective value of it

A little nugget of information that is vital to my job that I want to impart to you is that when you do a makeup in front of a mirror and it looks one way, when you get it on camera it may not be what is seen.  This is the same for you guys as I mentioned earlier, that when you do your makeup in front of your bathroom mirror it might look different to when you step outside into the natural light.  Just as I might have to make minor tweaks which are part of my job, you might need to make your own tweaks to yourself … such as taking down the amount of blusher that you have just applied to give a more natural feel in the natural light

With this in mind, have you ever thought about why you might notice certain colours more than others?  I am going to introduce some more colour terms that you will find useful when you are looking at, and describing your own makeup.

Warm colours and colours that are higher in value often get noticed first.  For example colours pertaining to red and yellow are considered to be warm and a bright red (a higher value, brighter red) will stand out and therefore get noticed by the eye much more quickly than a darker red

Cool colours and colours that are low in value are said to recede.  Blues and purples are cool colours and meet the eye more slowly than warm colours.  A dark blue which is less bright than a light blue would appear to recede from the eye

So now you are more familiar with how to describe colours, can you see how you might use this when it comes to applying your makeup?  Very often, the careful application of makeup means that we trick the eye by creating effects.  Look at the before and after photo below of Kim Kardashian

 

The photo is a fantastic example of exactly how this is done … by using the technique of contouring which uses highlighting and shading.  You can see that the darker areas under her cheekbones create depth and a darker or cooler colour is used here to create these areas of recession.  Alternatively, you can see the areas of highlighting on her cheekbones which create the illusion that the cheekbones are more prominent.  You can see in the “after” photo how her cheekbones look more prominent… through the use of careful highlighting techniques :)

As a rule of thumb which will be useful for you guys, to highlight or draw attention to a feature, use a warm colour or one that is high in value.  To create a shadow, or depth, use a cool colour or one that is low in value

Looking at the photo of Kim, you can see the very well-crafted contours and depth that she has created by using the basic colour theory!  There is nothing to stop you from doing this yourself. I will be writing a specific article on the Art of Shading and Contouring so make sure that you stay tuned.  Sign up to Make Up Like A Pro to receive notification of all my new posts so that you don’t miss out on anything!

The final element of colour theory that I want to mention today is colour reflectiveness and there are six common types of reflectiveness to be aware of.  Not all of these will be relevant in the application of Makeup, but you should be aware of the terms

Matte – this means that there is no shine so it can be opaque or translucent
Shiny – things that are shiny will have a gloss look
Metallic – these are highly reflective, bright and not see-through
Opaque – these are not see-through
Translucent – these are lightly fogged and barely see-through
Transparent – these are see-through such as glass

Can you think of some makeup-specific colour reflectiveness examples?  A matte lipstick would have a very different finish to a shiny lipstick.  Metallic eye shadows look great on some people but not on others, so being aware that there is a difference in those is crucial! A clear matte nail varnish for instance, looks great on a man as it does not have a shiny finish

So, after today’s article, does colour mean even more to you now?  Can you look at your face and start to notice the areas that you might want to highlight and those areas that you might want to darken?  I hope that you feel like you have more tools to be able to go ahead on your own and start to think about that

I will be giving you examples of some great makeup specifically for highlighting and shading so make sure you stay tuned!

Come back tomorrow as I finish with Part 4 and Part 5 of my week dedicated entirely to colour where I make recommendations as to what colours you should be wearing …

Thank you for reading

Make Up Like A Pro
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Special FX at home!

HALLOWEEN!
How to create a FAKE WOUND at home…

You don’t need the makeup kit of a makeup artist to get a gruesome wound for Halloween!

Follow my simple tips and run with it… Go create :)

To add a festering open wound to your face this Halloween, get some liquid latex and layer it to resemble torn flesh. It’s cheap to buy and easy to source

No liquid latex? That’s ok… Try out unflavoured gelatine or even marshmallows to create similar effects .

Don’t be afraid to experiment with latex and ready made strips of fake flesh or scabs which will create more texture and depth to your wound. Simply attach the strips with a thin layer of liquid latex and build it up!Using my fake blood recipe, liberally apply fake blood to your wound to achieve your ultimate gore fest!!Try blue and purple makeup (eye shadows blended together will work too) to create fake bruises. Fake black eyes are really effective and very simple to do. Why not use your pink or white makeup pencil and get creative and draw some fake scars!TIP! If you want to be a several week old zombie, blend in some green an yellow makeup to create a rotting wound effect

 

 

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Fake Blood Recipe!

HOME MADE BLOOD!
If you need blood for your Halloween costume this year you do not need to go out and buy the expensive stuff… you can make it at home for a lot less money!

Here’s what you need:
(1) Golden syrup
(2) Tap Water
(3) Red blue and green food colouring
(4) Flour or corn flour or syrups to thicken if required

Here’s how to make it:

 

(1) Combine 1 part water with 3 parts golden syrup in a bowl (add as much quantity of each as you require)
(2) Add drops of the red food colouring gradually until it resembles the colour of real blood. Be careful … less is more
(3) Add a few drops of blue or green food colouring to achieve a more realistic shade
NB: Arterial blood is bright red and venous blood is dark marroon
(4) You might need to thicken it up so use siften flour or corn flour or chocolate / caramel syrup. Stir constantly whilst adding
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